ULAANBAATAR
When an essentially nomadic people set out to build
a capital, they aren't likely to end up with something resembling
New York. Add some Stalinesque concrete housing structures and you
know you're not in Paris. Still, Ulaanbaatar is much more charming
and cosmopolitan than most people realize.
It is not only a great place to use as a base for trips to the
countryside, it is well worth exploring in its own right. Its
museums provide a structured insight into Mongolian culture and
history that you won't find elsewhere in the country. Furthermore,
many a visitor is bowled over at the number of high-end restaurants
serving up international cuisine of all varieties found in the
capital. Comfortable hotels of international standard featuring all
mod cons also abound, in contrast to the gers of the countryside.
Ulaanbaatar thus makes for a great place to regroup from a trip to
Mongolia and its further reaches.
Museums
Visit the Museum of Natural History for a look at
the impressive collection of dinosaur fossils, and exhibits on
Mongolian flora and fauna. For carvings, paintings and other works
of art head to the Zanabazar Museum of Fine Arts. Be sure to see
the painting by Sharav entitled "A Day in Life," an epic mural
depicting many scenes from Mongolian daily life that is as dear to
Mongolians as the David is to Italians. Also housed in the museum
is a gallery of contemporary Mongolian artists' works for sale The
National Museum of Mongolian History is a must-see on your Mongolia
tour for a deeper understanding of pastoral livelihoods and nomadic
life, as well as the different ethnic groups inhabiting the land. A
superb collection of traditional ethnic minority dress is well
organized. The Mongolian Art Gallery supports an outstanding
collection of modern Mongolian paintings and sculptures, with
descriptions subtitled in English.
Monasteries
Buddhism was hit hard in the Stalinist purges of
the 1930s. Thousands of lamas (Buddhist monks) were
killed, and most monasteries destroyed, and any leftover mangled
metal was sent to Leningrad to be melted down for bullet
production. The few monasteries that survived are well worth a
visit during your Mongolia trip. See the Gandan Hiid, the country's
most important monastery, which houses a recently rebuilt 75-foot
copper and gold Buddha statue covered in precious stones. The
Winter Palace of Bogd Khaan is also worth exploring, as is the
Choijin Lama Monastery Museum, spared destruction to serve as a
reminder of the "degenerate" ways of the feudal past.
A day trip to Bogd Mountain National Park is a
great way to enjoy the lovely nature and wildlife to be found near
the capital, but it's also the site of the Manzshir Monastery,
spectacularly set overlooking a gorgeous tree-covered valley
studded with granite outcroppings. The monastery itself lies in
partial ruins, but is currently undergoing restoration. It is
sometimes possible to spot small herds of elk in this area.
Naadam Festival
In mid-July, the country celebrates its
independence and its rich cultural heritage with three days of
sports and revelry during this renowned
Mongolia festival. The distinctly Mongolian feel and flair of
the Naadam Festival make it a wonderful spectacle, a joyous time,
and an intriguing cultural event.
Colorful ceremonies and parading soldiers kick off
the celebrations. The ancient game of wrestling follows, with men
competing in many rounds of competition. Both men and women compete
in the archery games, using the traditional Mongolian compound bow
that terrorized Europe when Genghis Khan and his Golden Horde moved
their empire west. The quintessentially Mongolian art of horse
racing follows, where up to 800 horses compete, jockeyed by
children so that the skill of the horse, and not the rider, is
tested.